OT: 1/700 water line ship models

[rroberson]

If you guys like ship dioramas you should check out this blog.

Kostas ship models

The guy does jap dropping work.

[John 3rd]

Wow. Makes our current project IJN Jintsu look like nothing!

[obvert]

ORIGINAL: rroberson

If you guys like ship dioramas you should check out this blog.

Kostas ship models

The guy does jap dropping work.

Yeah, I've seen his work for a while. It's complete mastery. He does a lot of it a 1:700 too!

This kind of stuff is unbelievable.

[rroberson]

Yeah, makes me realize just how much of an amateur I am at building. I still love to do it, but I will never be on par with him.

[nashvillen]

Here is my air wing. Testing on the SBDs that are not going to be in the air wing with decals starts tomorrow. Found the props to be delicate, and they probably won't go on the rest until they are ready to be installed in and on CVL-22. And, Yes, I know there was on a couple of occasions that they had 12xTBF on the ship, but I am building a WitP:AE legal air wing and can go to 36 air frames! [:D]

Overall Photo from oblique:


Overall Photo from above:


Fighters:


Torpedo Bombers:


Note, that most do not have their wing tips attached or canopies installed. This is to facilitate painting and decal placement or not damaging the clear plastic for canopies. They will be installed after the decals are done and sealed. Also, one of the TBFs is missing a cowling. It fell on the floor and I haven't found it yet. May make a scene in the hanger explaining it or just tucking the nose in a place where it won't be seen.

[Mundy]

I'm feeling dread with the air groups when I get to them. It's probably not nearly as bad as I'm imagining. Either way, they'll be the last thing I add.

I'm hoping my airbrush is fine enough to do them that way. I've read talk about being able to mask the canopies, but that seems pretty tough. Maybe a blue wash over the clear parts would work.

Some plane kits in this scale come in all clear plastic. With these, I'm going to base coat them in interior green. It does make a difference, looking through the canopies, once finished.

Ed-

[wdolson]

I haven't gotten very far with my experiments yet, but I have used white glue to temporarily attach things for painting with the air brush (usually canopies on aircraft kits, though not this tiny scale). I was thinking about trying using thinned white glue as a mask, but I haven't had the airbrush out since I thought of it. The nice thing with white glue is that it scrapes off with your fingernail when you want to remove it.

Bill

[Lokasenna]

ORIGINAL: Mundy

I'm feeling dread with the air groups when I get to them. It's probably not nearly as bad as I'm imagining. Either way, they'll be the last thing I add.

I'm hoping my airbrush is fine enough to do them that way. I've read talk about being able to mask the canopies, but that seems pretty tough. Maybe a blue wash over the clear parts would work.

Some plane kits in this scale come in all clear plastic. With these, I'm going to base coat them in interior green. It does make a difference, looking through the canopies, once finished.

Ed-

For masking the canopies, I recommend two things.

The first, and best, way (IMO) is to delay attaching the clear plastic. Use masking tape over the cockpit, and a hobby knife/razorblade to cut away any extra. You may need to touch up some places that the tape covered by hand, but nothing major.

The second way is to basically do the same thing, except after attaching the canopy - lightly cover with masking tape and use a knife to pare away anything that isn't just on the clear canopy. I say lightly cover because if you press down too hard, some brands of masking tape are very sticky and may leave residue on your canopy or pull it off the model when you remove the tape.

[nashvillen]

I have had great success with white glue. All the molded canopies there have white glue on them. The rest are still on the sprue, waiting on the Zinc Chromate paint for the interior.

As for airbrushing, I know mine wasn't fine enough to do them at that scale. I do have lots of very fine brushes, but it does leave a harsh line instead of the feathering affect an airbrush will leave. They just need to pass the two foot rule. If it looks good at two foot it is good enough.

Put decals on the Trumpeter F6Fs this weekend. They come in three parts for the Star and the bars on each side. So, four per plane, times three is 12 decals per plane. 216 decals that were very small per plane this weekend. Also, applied the folded wings for the F6Fs.

[wdolson]

My father was a photographer and he had some stuff called Anchor Film Cleaner which was used to clean negatives of marks. We discovered it did a wonderful job of removing tape residue too. It didn't damage the plastic, but if the paint wasn't 100% dry it tended to take off the paint too. With completely dry paint it was fine.

Bill

[TOMLABEL]

Hello guys! I've posted some of my aircraft stuff on the DAERHT-INTA thread in the past, but have always loved ship models - oh but that may have been in the old WITP forum several years ago. Anyway, I've waited 15 years for some company to have the guts to do a 1/350 1942 CV 5/6, but none have stepped up to date. Well we got a CV8 tanker from Trumpeter so that is what I will have to work with because I've gotten to tired of waiting.

So here we go... First off (ask Bill O.) I'm not a mathematician so I've done my best to eyeball this so far. Here is the bridge platform for CV5 that I've created and attached with white glue to the Nautilus island conversion kit. Next I'm gonna do the two fighting top platforms but I'm finding it difficult to find what plans I should purchase to show me these areas in detail.

TOMLABEL

[TOMLABEL]

And the overhead.

[wdolson]

So you're starting with the resin conversion kit and the Trumpeter CV8. I know you've been critical of that kit in the past.

I've seen that Trumpeter is coming out with a 1/200 scale USS Hornet.

Bill

[TOMLABEL]

Yes the Nautilus resin island conversion, but it too needs a bit of correction but not too much. I'm still tempted to wait to see if Dragon will take this kit up.

The 1/200 Hornet will be awesome especially seeing some of the photo etch companies pics of what they plan to do to it. Also Nautilus is planning to do resin conversions for this as well. But for ~$300 for a plastic model PLUS $$$$ for PE and resin conversions and replacement wood deck, then it quickly breaks the budget.

Didn't know if you knew this, but Trumpeter is also going to release a 1/200 CV6 Enterprise. No info if it will be 42 or 44 version.

TOMLABEL

[John 3rd]

Cannot even GUESS what the $$$ would be for that kit!

[TOMLABEL]

Fighting top. I don't think I like it. Something about it is off. I should bite the bullet and buy some plans. And then send them to Bill!!![:D][:D][:D]

[wdolson]

I guess I appreciate your confidence, though I'm not sure what I could do to help.

Bill

[TOMLABEL]

Didn't mean to put you on the spot like that Bill. Just kidding around...[;)]

Just wish I had the skills of Paul. I should have taken my math classes more seriously!!!

http://paulbudzik.com/current-projects/ ... ratch.html

[wdolson]

I was just confused. While I can do a reasonable job when provided with the right parts, I'm terrible at scratchbuilding. I wish I had those types of scratchbuilding skills.

It does look like the Trumpeter Hornet is very badly done. Trumpeter, especially early on made some kits that were state of the art molds, but only had a passing resemblance to the real thing. They botched the 1/24 scale Spitfire with really poor looking fabric texture on the fixed portion of the horizontal stabilizers. The A6M2 Zero in 1/24 had a fictional bump in front of the cockpit, the SM.79 had horrible fabric texture all over the plane. Their more recent efforts have been better, but when Hobby Boss rescaled the Spitfire to 1/32 scale they kept the horizontal tail surface problem. (Hobby Boss is the same company.)

I think the Hornet was their first 1/350 scale release. I wonder if the 1/200 has the same problems?

Bill

[Symon]

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I was just confused. While I can do a reasonable job when provided with the right parts, I'm terrible at scratchbuilding. I wish I had those types of scratchbuilding skills.

My back-room hobby is building late 17th and early 18th century wooden ships. We try to make every timber be historically accurate in shape, size, and placement. There’s a lot of incredibly good info on just about everything relating to model building at http://modelshipworld.com/ including sections on modern ships. People will show how to make accurate miniature double cheek blocks, so a fighting top shouldn’t be much of a problem.

The people, there, are from around the world, and are the nicest and most righteous folks you would ever want to meet. They are the folks whose models grace museums around the world. But they are always available to help a noob with blivets on a commercial kit. There’s threads on tools, and materials, and techniques, and bears, oh My !!

Ciao. John

Hey Kelley - GO GATORS !!