ORIGINAL: Yaab
Thanks. Running this game on a resolution higher than 1200 x 800 on 15' screen is not really an option as the hexes and labels get small, but if you have a big screen and can run the game on a very high resolution then the Chemkid's Topo 2 map is the way to go. Looked gorgeous in 1680 x 1050 even though trying to click on selected hexes was like dropping bombs from a very high altitude.
You might see if "cheating" by toggling F6 helps. That's the one showing hex side codes (what units can pass each hex side terrain-wise: land, sea, both, none, river crossing...). Whenever the map I am using masks the hex boundaries I just hit F6 to make the hexes pop out.