Advise on what components to buy for DIY built computer
Moderator: maddog986
Don't forget an ample supply of USB 2.0 and Firewire ports!
Everything seems to be going to USB 2.0 these days and the FW is used to connect a DV video camera (if you got one, that is).
If you can still find the Radeon 9500 Pro - get it! It's cheaper and faster than the 9600 Pro (ATI saves $$$ on manufacturing).
--Mikko
Everything seems to be going to USB 2.0 these days and the FW is used to connect a DV video camera (if you got one, that is).
If you can still find the Radeon 9500 Pro - get it! It's cheaper and faster than the 9600 Pro (ATI saves $$$ on manufacturing).
--Mikko
- Fallschirmjager
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- BrubakerII
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- Location: Adelaide Australia
- Belisarius
- Posts: 3099
- Joined: Sat May 26, 2001 8:00 am
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Originally posted by Strat
Ok, think I'll go with MSI mobo but still looking at specs.
Raid. can someone tell me what Raid is?
keep em coming although I'm probably already sold.
Strat..
There's Raid0, Raid1,...., Raid5. Basically it's the ability to parallell run your HD's for either optimized speed, data security if a drive fails or just lots of storage. The downside is that it does require identical drives, and at least 2 of them.... 4 (I think) for a Raid5 array.
A link for some good intro on RAID:
Tom's harware guide IDE course part 2: RAID
-
Les_the_Sarge_9_1
- Posts: 3943
- Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2000 10:00 am
Heads up on Tigerdirect.
Consider this heresay if you wish, but I had someone mention their site so I looked into it.
On the surface they look ordinary, might even be ordinary. But when I mentioned it to my friend who has extensive experience with buying online, all I got was a torent of bad news about Tigerdirect.
Poof their bookmark died in a second.
One of my standard operating rules is when my smarter computer buddies tell me something, it pays to listen.
Consider this heresay if you wish, but I had someone mention their site so I looked into it.
On the surface they look ordinary, might even be ordinary. But when I mentioned it to my friend who has extensive experience with buying online, all I got was a torent of bad news about Tigerdirect.
Poof their bookmark died in a second.
One of my standard operating rules is when my smarter computer buddies tell me something, it pays to listen.
I LIKE that my life bothers them,
Why should I be the only one bothered by it eh.
Why should I be the only one bothered by it eh.
- junk2drive
- Posts: 12856
- Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2002 7:27 am
- Location: Arizona West Coast
I have purchased from www.allstarshop.com with great results, and have heard good things about newegg.com and googlegear.com. all three have high ratings with bizrate.
allstar emails me a confirmation, then a ups tracking number. quick service, their webpage tells you if it is stock, etc.
www.pcmech.com forums will give u lots of things that go wrong. thats how i learned.
allstar emails me a confirmation, then a ups tracking number. quick service, their webpage tells you if it is stock, etc.
www.pcmech.com forums will give u lots of things that go wrong. thats how i learned.
Conflict of Heroes "Most games are like checkers or chess and some have dice and cards involved too. This game plays like checkers but you think like chess and the dice and cards can change everything in real time."
Never had a prob with them meself, but Your Mileage May Vary. <shrug>
If you have the buckage (but being wargamers it's bloody unlikely <G>) you can always go with a complete hi-performance box from Alienware or someone; burned in, tech support, recovery discs, parts that like each other... of course, you can build a couple-three decent machines for the price of one of the bleeding-edge screamers. Personally, I can live behind the power-curve; it's kinda nice to have a working box when people I know are frantically trying to figure out if it was the overclocking, the beta (or *alpha* <!!!>) drivers, or the breed of the chicken they've sacrificed to get it all working in the first place...
If you have the buckage (but being wargamers it's bloody unlikely <G>) you can always go with a complete hi-performance box from Alienware or someone; burned in, tech support, recovery discs, parts that like each other... of course, you can build a couple-three decent machines for the price of one of the bleeding-edge screamers. Personally, I can live behind the power-curve; it's kinda nice to have a working box when people I know are frantically trying to figure out if it was the overclocking, the beta (or *alpha* <!!!>) drivers, or the breed of the chicken they've sacrificed to get it all working in the first place...
SP:WAW (http://www.matrixgames.com/Games/WorldAtWar/index.asp)
SP:MBT/SP:WW2 (http://linetap.com/www/drg/SPCamo.htm)
Combat Mission HQ (http://www.combatmission.com/)
G-o-D's Close Combat Links (http://home.wanadoo.nl/cclinks/)
SP:MBT/SP:WW2 (http://linetap.com/www/drg/SPCamo.htm)
Combat Mission HQ (http://www.combatmission.com/)
G-o-D's Close Combat Links (http://home.wanadoo.nl/cclinks/)
- Bobthehatchit
- Posts: 838
- Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2003 7:15 pm
- Location: GREAT BRITAIN
Originally posted by Marc Schwanebeck
Why would you want to do that?
Talking RAM, get quality brand RAM , like Kingston or Infineon, that "cheap" stuff (it isn´t actually much cheaper) only gives you more grief if you have bad luck.
Cus i kill machines, atleast once a year some thing will usually fails, my intel mb has lasted well and I have had nothing but problems with amd based systems.
Intel - never underestimate the power of the dark side...
Yeah always worth paying for decent ram.
"Look at yours before laughing at mine". Garfield 1984.
Wanted: ISDII Low millage in Imperial gray.
Just my 2 pence worth.
I might not be right.
Hell I am probaby wrong.
But thats my opinion for what its worth!
Wanted: ISDII Low millage in Imperial gray.
Just my 2 pence worth.
I might not be right.
Hell I am probaby wrong.
But thats my opinion for what its worth!
Not an expert but,
My .02$
If you are saving your drives - it sounds like you have some experience inside the "box". This will save you a lot of money opposed to buying a whole new system. I have built 5 systems including 2 business systems (3 P4's and 2 AMD)
1) Buy your parts from one retailer at one time -save on shipping.
2) on-line retailers are good if you are not shipping internationally otherwise look at home retailers or English on-line dealers. (NewEgg is my personal favorite in USA -good prices/fast shipping/good on returns)
3) I used MSI mobo's for the AMD systems, switched to Asus for the P4 systems - I like the Asus mobo's much better (easier to fine tune or overclock) but there was nothing wrong with the MSI boards either.
4) I dont have a preference on Video cards anymore - its too hard keeping up with the joneses! Nvidia FX5800 is DX9 and sub-$200 128mb is more than enough for the next couple of years. ATI Radeon is just as good (9600 I think is the best price/performance according to ExtremeTech site)
5) Consider getting a barebones unit if you dont want the hassle of installing the chipset and motherboard - then add in the parts you want, (HD, drives, video) it may be the way to go for you.
6) RAM is cheap -Buy it! As stated by others here. DO NOT buy a mobo that doesn't allow for 2GB of DDR Ram. I'm running a 2.4Ghz P4 homebuild with 1.25GB of Ram - it smokes!
7) Some local computer shops may have what you want, and helpful people to get it done right. ( Dont be afraid to walk out - if the alarmed feeling or neck hairs start to rise - trust your instincts and leave NOW) but good people also exist and helped me immensely getting on my feet with computers.
8) As far as AMD/P4 choices? AMD is cheaper but the CPU runs hotter = more fans to keep cool, maybe more noise. P4 is stable and more choices in mobo's otherwise it doesn't really make a difference to me...
If you are saving your drives - it sounds like you have some experience inside the "box". This will save you a lot of money opposed to buying a whole new system. I have built 5 systems including 2 business systems (3 P4's and 2 AMD)
1) Buy your parts from one retailer at one time -save on shipping.
2) on-line retailers are good if you are not shipping internationally otherwise look at home retailers or English on-line dealers. (NewEgg is my personal favorite in USA -good prices/fast shipping/good on returns)
3) I used MSI mobo's for the AMD systems, switched to Asus for the P4 systems - I like the Asus mobo's much better (easier to fine tune or overclock) but there was nothing wrong with the MSI boards either.
4) I dont have a preference on Video cards anymore - its too hard keeping up with the joneses! Nvidia FX5800 is DX9 and sub-$200 128mb is more than enough for the next couple of years. ATI Radeon is just as good (9600 I think is the best price/performance according to ExtremeTech site)
5) Consider getting a barebones unit if you dont want the hassle of installing the chipset and motherboard - then add in the parts you want, (HD, drives, video) it may be the way to go for you.
6) RAM is cheap -Buy it! As stated by others here. DO NOT buy a mobo that doesn't allow for 2GB of DDR Ram. I'm running a 2.4Ghz P4 homebuild with 1.25GB of Ram - it smokes!
7) Some local computer shops may have what you want, and helpful people to get it done right. ( Dont be afraid to walk out - if the alarmed feeling or neck hairs start to rise - trust your instincts and leave NOW) but good people also exist and helped me immensely getting on my feet with computers.
8) As far as AMD/P4 choices? AMD is cheaper but the CPU runs hotter = more fans to keep cool, maybe more noise. P4 is stable and more choices in mobo's otherwise it doesn't really make a difference to me...
I like the P4 800Mhz FSB, I like it a LOT, I Don't know. I really don't know. ****, **** ****. (Dam, Dam dam)so many choices.
Sorry but I may turn to intel.
Heat is a problem with my current 1050Mhz AMD unclocked AK32h mobo system. Namely, "shut down". Pain in the posterior. I have three internal fans Plus the power supply fan and all sides off to increase circulation. Tiz a tad noisey.
Probably don't help that my wife has a cold fobia, so we tend to live in the oven.
Strat..
Sorry but I may turn to intel.
Heat is a problem with my current 1050Mhz AMD unclocked AK32h mobo system. Namely, "shut down". Pain in the posterior. I have three internal fans Plus the power supply fan and all sides off to increase circulation. Tiz a tad noisey.
Probably don't help that my wife has a cold fobia, so we tend to live in the oven.
Strat..
Einstien rules relativity,
Well in theory.
Well in theory.
Re: Not an expert but,
Originally posted by moore4807
My .02$
AMD is cheaper but the CPU runs hotter = more fans to keep cool, maybe more noise.
Utter nonsense...I know several people who have built their own computers *with* AMD chips and *with* the purpose of getting as silent machine as possible. If you get even decent quality coolers/fans you can get an AMD box where the loudest part is the hard drive....and no sacrifices with stability.
Voriax
Oh God give Me strength to accept those things I cannot change with a firearm!
- Marc von Martial
- Posts: 5292
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- Location: Bonn, Germany
- Contact:
Originally posted by moore4807
AMD is cheaper but the CPU runs hotter = more fans to keep cool, maybe more noise.
Yep pure nonsense. My AMD XP 2400, didn´t go hotter then 35°C and that during our heat wave here. Room temperature around 45°C
Below is something I posted a few month ago on a similiar thread on the CL boards:
*snip*
A little bit on cooling.
It´s very very important to have a correct coolling strategy. Wether Pentium or AMD. On my setup my AMD 2400+ is running at an average temperature of 35°C (room temperature is currently around 28°C), roughly 20°C less then the P4 of my best buddy. And that without anything really special.
1. Airflow:
There´s only one that works good, it can drop the temperate by more then 12°C:

If you don´t have a power supply with a bottom air intake you´re "doomed" anyway regarding a cool vs. noise setup.
Sadly most bargain Power supplies do not have a bottom air intake.
If the airflow is correct you don´t need a highspeed heatsink -> less noise.
2. Quality fans:
Cheap fans often have the problem that they have cheap bearings (or non at all
So for the case only buy quality fans and when you buy a new CPU Cooler, don´t save the 5 bucks, buy a quality one too. Coolermaster for example (they only use Pabst fans)
3. CPU Cooler:
This one is particular interesting since it uses a totally new concept that provides more cool air to the CPU spot that is hottest:
Coolermaster Aero 7
I have it running, kick *** and **** silent.
4. Clear path for the airflow:
Don´t use those standard fat IDE cables. Use rounded ones. The fat standard ones block the airflow and much more cause a lot of noise when air passes by.
5. The CPU coolers/ heat sink base:
Copper only
6. Cooling paste instead of cooling strips:
Yes strips are comfortable but they often do not transmit the heat from the CPU to the heat sink correctly.
7. If you want to go really crazy:
Set up your Pc case with acoustic matting material
8. Do not underestimate the noise bargain power supllies make. That´s sometimes the most crtiticall part.
For all your needs:
http://www.quietpc.com/
That AMDs are generally louder then Pentiums is a fairy tale.
- Marc von Martial
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- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2001 4:00 pm
- Location: Bonn, Germany
- Contact:
Originally posted by Marc Schwanebeck
Yep pure nonsense. My AMD XP 2400, didn´t go hotter then 35°C and that during our heat wave here. Room temperature around 45°C. My best buddies P4 though went up in flames during a compiling session in that very same week.
Below is something I posted a few month ago on a similiar thread on the CL boards:
*snip*
A little bit on cooling.
It´s very very important to have a correct coolling strategy. Wether Pentium or AMD. On my setup my AMD 2400+ is running at an average temperature of 35°C (room temperature is currently around 28°C), roughly 20°C less then the P4 of my best buddy. And that without anything really special.
1. Airflow:
There´s only one that works good, it can drop the temperate by more then 12°C:
If you don´t have a power supply with a bottom air intake you´re "doomed" anyway regarding a cool vs. noise setup.
Sadly most bargain Power supplies do not have a bottom air intake.
If the airflow is correct you don´t need a highspeed heatsink -> less noise.
2. Quality fans:
Cheap fans often have the problem that they have cheap bearings (or non at all) and are closed-die pressed with flash. That alone is responsible for major loudness.
So for the case only buy quality fans and when you buy a new CPU Cooler, don´t save the 5 bucks, buy a quality one too. Coolermaster for example (they only use Pabst fans)
3. CPU Cooler:
This one is particular interesting since it uses a totally new concept that provides more cool air to the CPU spot that is hottest:
Coolermaster Aero 7
I have it running, kick *** and **** silent.
4. Clear path for the airflow:
Don´t use those standard fat IDE cables. Use rounded ones. The fat standard ones block the airflow and much more cause a lot of noise when air passes by.
5. The CPU coolers/ heat sink base:
Copper only
6. Cooling paste instead of cooling strips:
Yes strips are comfortable but they often do not transmit the heat from the CPU to the heat sink correctly.
7. If you want to go really crazy:
Set up your Pc case with acoustic matting material. Works well, but increases the Case temperature a bit.
8. Do not underestimate the noise bargain power supllies make. That´s sometimes the most crtiticall part.
For all your needs:
http://www.quietpc.com/
That AMDs are generally louder then Pentiums is a fairy tale.
Now,Now
Marc - never said they were louder- I said they run hotter!
if your buddy's CPU was generating 20 degrees celcius HOTTER than your AMD 2400, then he was frying his chipset like an egg!
My point is AMD requires more cooling to maintain CPU temp than P4. It doesnt mean louder- like you I used coolermaster fans and they keep it quiet enough to hear the HDD kick on and off on the AMD systems I built. I used 2 fans per unit (same as your illustration) and mobo temp never went over 110 degrees on either unit.
On my P4 homebuild the mobo temp is a cool 95 degrees with the same two fan configuration... quiet as a church mouse! I can get away with one fan on the P4 - but for 15$ how can you pass it up on a second fan?





