ww2 campaign
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ww2 campaign
No one answered my question the last time i posted, so here it is again. Do I have to buy all my core units before I start the 1st battle? If not how do you really know how many to buy since you do not know the force you are up against? Any suggestions are helpful thanks.
Yes, the units you buy are what you will play with throughout the campaign. Anything not spent is gone. You will be able to upgrade units though. Buy a well balanced force. If you have a few points left, buy some jeeps to upgrade to tanks later, or snipers to upgrade to infantry, etc (try to go foot to foot, armor to armor, or artillery to artillery). Too much of this and you will get really bored, but a few extra units don't hurt.
Goblin
Goblin
Yes,
The initial force you buy will be your "core", then when you start your first battle, you'll buy additional forces.
The size of the force you face will be based upon the point value of your forces.
In a Meeting Engagement (Advance/Advance), 1:1, 2:1 in an Advance/Delay, and 3:1 in an Assault/Defend, IIRC.
Good luck!
EDIT:
A Goblin is a faster typist
The initial force you buy will be your "core", then when you start your first battle, you'll buy additional forces.
The size of the force you face will be based upon the point value of your forces.
In a Meeting Engagement (Advance/Advance), 1:1, 2:1 in an Advance/Delay, and 3:1 in an Assault/Defend, IIRC.
Good luck!
EDIT:
A Goblin is a faster typist
Well,
You don't need to know........ The AI force total will be based upon the point value of whatever core force you put together AND what type of engegement your fighting. For instance on an assault you'll be fighting an enemy with roughly half the points as your core force, where on a meeting engagement you should expect force parity...........
You don't need to know........ The AI force total will be based upon the point value of whatever core force you put together AND what type of engegement your fighting. For instance on an assault you'll be fighting an enemy with roughly half the points as your core force, where on a meeting engagement you should expect force parity...........
In about a half-dozen other threads like this, I've posted a workable German entry-level force that is around 1500 points and 70 units. That keeps the size down (which keeps the enemy's size down), gives you a little of everything, and few enough units that you might finish Long WWII before you're old.
eniced33...
Who do you want to play as? The threads are out there for just about any of the "big six" you want to start as. Give us some hints. Also, how have you set your preferences? These are vital in choosing core forces.
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Wolfleader
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 6:19 am
Yes you do need to buy your core units before starting.
As for what to buy since you don't know what you'll be up against it's usually best to have a well rounded force.
I'm not sure how many points you've allocated for yourself and the PC to buy units with but I would recommend you have:
A company or two of infantry.
A section of scout cars
A platoon of 4 man recon teams. (or commandos or even snipers if your really short on cash.)
2 to 3 platoons of medium tanks.
2 to 3 Forward Observers.
2 to 3 Flak batteries. 88 battery's if your playing as the Germans from 1939 to 1942 (trust me you'll want these once the B1Bis, T-34's and KV's start comming.)
A section of infantry support tanks (stugs, SIG's, etc...) As the allies I tend to use the Brit 3 inch AA as they tend to be pretty useful in the AT role too.
I also tend to have a platoon of Kubelwagens (or jeeps depending on who your playing) for evacuating the crews of my knocked out tanks.
You may need to adjust just how much of each of these you buy depending on how much points you have and how much you gave the PC. Just make sure your inf outnumber your tanks as these are the backbone of any major military force and the most usefull for dealing with infantry in built up areas dangerous to armour like forests and cities and when your opponent decides to drown you in smoke shells before rushing his own infantry in.
Inf riding on tanks also helps keep the enemy infantry from close assaulting your tanks if they end up getting too close.
As for what to buy since you don't know what you'll be up against it's usually best to have a well rounded force.
I'm not sure how many points you've allocated for yourself and the PC to buy units with but I would recommend you have:
A company or two of infantry.
A section of scout cars
A platoon of 4 man recon teams. (or commandos or even snipers if your really short on cash.)
2 to 3 platoons of medium tanks.
2 to 3 Forward Observers.
2 to 3 Flak batteries. 88 battery's if your playing as the Germans from 1939 to 1942 (trust me you'll want these once the B1Bis, T-34's and KV's start comming.)
A section of infantry support tanks (stugs, SIG's, etc...) As the allies I tend to use the Brit 3 inch AA as they tend to be pretty useful in the AT role too.
I also tend to have a platoon of Kubelwagens (or jeeps depending on who your playing) for evacuating the crews of my knocked out tanks.
You may need to adjust just how much of each of these you buy depending on how much points you have and how much you gave the PC. Just make sure your inf outnumber your tanks as these are the backbone of any major military force and the most usefull for dealing with infantry in built up areas dangerous to armour like forests and cities and when your opponent decides to drown you in smoke shells before rushing his own infantry in.
Inf riding on tanks also helps keep the enemy infantry from close assaulting your tanks if they end up getting too close.
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Charles2222
- Posts: 3687
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2001 10:00 am
Although I used to have one or two vehicles of some sort to try to move crews from danger, I now question whether this makes very much sense. I mean the problem with loading them is that they're often too suppressed to load even after any rally attempts. What that usually means is it'll take 2 or more turns of rally attmpts to get them loadable, which means, that if they were unbothered enough to survive two or more turns, they're probably not even seen by the enemy anymore and can therefore remain where they ended up or slowly move away on the own power. I surely wouldn't move any rescue vehicles into the area until they'd proved they were loadable. And, of course, if the rescue vehicle takes it's maximum range to get to the unit in one turn, since it would be able to load, but not move, it would be better for that vehicle to go maybe 3/4's of the way there, and then pick up the next turn.
There's only one thing in the world worse than a crew stuck out in the open, and that's a crew loaded on a soft vehicle out in the open.
There's only one thing in the world worse than a crew stuck out in the open, and that's a crew loaded on a soft vehicle out in the open.
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Wolfleader
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 6:19 am
The rescue vehicles I use tend to be fairly cheap and expendable kubelwagens or even 251 halftracks if I have the purchase points to spare. As far as moving the injured crew I usually just wait until they manage to unsuppress themselves before sending my rescue vehicle in. Once they've unsuppressed themselves then I order them to move someplace safe for the pick up. Even though as you said they may be hidden from the enemy I still much prefer to have a fairly experienced tank crew be on their way, protected in a vehicle, to the exit gates rather than sitting in cover in the middle of the battlefield where there exists the chance of them having an unpleasant surprise encounter with marauding enemy infantry.
I also make it a habit to keep my tanks close together so if one does get knocked out then the other tanks can provide covering fire for the crew and rescue vehicle.
I also make it a habit to keep my tanks close together so if one does get knocked out then the other tanks can provide covering fire for the crew and rescue vehicle.
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Charles2222
- Posts: 3687
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2001 10:00 am
You've therefore reached pretty muhc the same conclusion I have, but it is awfully difficult to stop the immediate rescue attempt in your brain to realize it's all fruitless if the crew isn't even loadable. It's usually, move vehicle first, rally crew second.Wolfleader wrote:The rescue vehicles I use tend to be fairly cheap and expendable kubelwagens or even 251 halftracks if I have the purchase points to spare. As far as moving the injured crew I usually just wait until they manage to unsuppress themselves before sending my rescue vehicle in. Once they've unsuppressed themselves then I order them to move someplace safe for the pick up. Even though as you said they may be hidden from the enemy I still much prefer to have a fairly experienced tank crew be on their way, protected in a vehicle, to the exit gates rather than sitting in cover in the middle of the battlefield where there exists the chance of them having an unpleasant surprise encounter with marauding enemy infantry.
I also make it a habit to keep my tanks close together so if one does get knocked out then the other tanks can provide covering fire for the crew and rescue vehicle.
What you were saying about the tanks was pretty much where I've arrived with that, as of course practically any vehicle will do.
I was also mentioning the importance of making sure your rescuer had plenty of movement ability 'after' a successful loading, simply because I was playing not so much off the idea that the soft vehicle would therefore be subject to direct fire, which of course it could, but more along the lines of suspecting that the enemy might subject the crew area to artillery and that a soft vehicle didn't want to be in place like that. A lot of times that same crew is more vulnerable loaded on the vehicle if it's hit, as opposed to their survival chances if they're hit on the ground.
Actually, in a number of cases, I'm sure we would be better off not even trying to rally the crew until it's at least five hexes beyond where it took it's loss, because of course if does get hit it's more difficult to hit with a rout on. I'm so much in a habit of rallying everything that it becomes very difficult to realize that there are instances when keeping them routed is the best thing. It really gets stupid when you do one of the no-no's I alluded to earlier with the vehicle, and then on top of that rally the crew only enough to get loaded, but not be able to move it any (pinned status).
Your core force that you start with should be a fairly good mix of infantry, armor, and artillery. That way, you will be able to handle -- to some extent -- the variations from scenario to scenario. All with ONE IMPORTANT CAVEAT which I explain below.
Think about it. One scenario, your guys might need to defend in the desert. The next, they may be asked to make an assault in a heavily forested area. The specific needs are quite different here. But, a good "general" mix of core forces can help to offset this.
Also, you will get to add a few "non-core" or "auxillary" units for each scenario. Prior to adding these, you will know what your map looks like and what your mission is. So, you get a chance to add some units specifically needed for your particular mission.
CAVEAT: Err on the side of quantity in your original purchase. I pick more "cheap" units to start with. This gives you more units that can be upgraded later. You can't add units later, but, you can add quality later. So, instead of taking 25 good units to begin your campaign (in which case you will never have more than 25), you might select only 10 good units, and 30 "cheap" units. This will give you 40 units to start with, not all good ones, but they are all upgradeable. Eventually, you will have 40 good units using the latter strategy instead of never getting more that the original 25 good units in the former situation. It will make your early battles a bit more difficult, but it will pay off in the long run.
Think about it. One scenario, your guys might need to defend in the desert. The next, they may be asked to make an assault in a heavily forested area. The specific needs are quite different here. But, a good "general" mix of core forces can help to offset this.
Also, you will get to add a few "non-core" or "auxillary" units for each scenario. Prior to adding these, you will know what your map looks like and what your mission is. So, you get a chance to add some units specifically needed for your particular mission.
CAVEAT: Err on the side of quantity in your original purchase. I pick more "cheap" units to start with. This gives you more units that can be upgraded later. You can't add units later, but, you can add quality later. So, instead of taking 25 good units to begin your campaign (in which case you will never have more than 25), you might select only 10 good units, and 30 "cheap" units. This will give you 40 units to start with, not all good ones, but they are all upgradeable. Eventually, you will have 40 good units using the latter strategy instead of never getting more that the original 25 good units in the former situation. It will make your early battles a bit more difficult, but it will pay off in the long run.
Of course, you can always just allocate yourself more points to begin with and select the 40 units you really want to start with instead of 10 good, 30 cheap. Up to you.
As the Japanese, I always upgraded at least 1 platoon of infantry with Type 100 SMG's... and usually it was just 1 Pl that DIDN'T. They come in handy in the jungles.
As the Japanese, I always upgraded at least 1 platoon of infantry with Type 100 SMG's... and usually it was just 1 Pl that DIDN'T. They come in handy in the jungles.